roadkill

halloween_crochet_bunny_neschof

A fun and gruesome amigurumi crochet pattern for Halloween. Written using American crochet terms but only single crochet stitches are used so just substitute for dc if you’re used to reading English patterns. You will need:

  • brown and red yarn, around dk or worsted weight
  • a suitable sized hook
  • a yarn needle
  • buttons or beads or safety eyes or felt or whatever you’ve got
  • black and pink embroidery floss and a suitable needle

Head. In brown, crocheting into the back loop only of all stitches:

  1.  create a magic ring with 6sc
  2.  2sc in each stitch (12 stitches)
  3. *2sc, sc* repeat 6 times (18 stitches)
  4. *2sc, sc, sc* repeat 6 times (24 stitches)
  5. *2sc, sc, sc, sc* repeat 6 times (30 stitches)
  6. *2sc, sc, sc, sc, sc* repeat 6 times (36 stitches)
  7.  1sc in each stitch around (36 stitches)
  8.  1sc in each stitch around (36 stitches)
  9.  1sc in each stitch for half the round (18 stitches) then add red yarn and finish the round crocheting the two strands (red and brown) together, 1sc in each stitch (36 stitches total)
  10. *2sc, sc next 5 stitches* repeat 6 times (42 stitches)
  11. *2sc, sc next 6 stitches* repeat 6 times (48 stitches)
  12. drop the brown yarn and continue with just one strand of red *2sc, sc next 7 stitches* repeat 6 times (54 stitches)
  13. *2sc, sc next 8 stitches* repeat 6 times (60 stitches)
  14. *2sc, sc next 9 stitches* repeat 6 times (66 stitches)

underside of blood pool. In red, crocheting into the back loop only of all stitches:

  1.  create a magic ring with 6sc
  2.  2sc in each stitch (12 stitches)
  3. *2sc, sc* repeat 6 times (18 stitches)
  4. *2sc, sc, sc* repeat 6 times (24 stitches)
  5. *2sc, sc, sc, sc* repeat 6 times (30 stitches)
  6. *2sc, sc, sc, sc, sc* repeat 6 times (36 stitches)
  7. *2sc, sc next 5 stitches* repeat 6 times (42 stitches)
  8. *2sc, sc next 6 stitches* repeat 6 times (48 stitches)
  9. *2sc, sc next 7 stitches* repeat 6 times (54 stitches)
  10. *2sc, sc next 8 stitches* repeat 6 times (60 stitches)
  11. *2sc, sc next 9 stitches* repeat 6 times (66 stitches)

Ears. Make 2. In brown, crocheting into the back loop only of all stitches:

  1.  create a magic ring with 6sc
  2. *2sc, sc* repeat 3 times (9 stitches)
  3. *2sc, sc, sc* repeat 3 times (12 stitches)
  4.  1sc in each stitch around (12 stitches)

repeat round 4 until the ear measures ~7cm or any length you like the look of. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the ear onto the head. fold each ear in half at the base and pinch while sewing on to create the 3d ear shape.

roadkill_bunny_crochet (13)

Eyes. Use a safety eye or button or white felt for one “normal” eye and create the other as in my zombie phone case pattern – sew a patch of black embroidery floss to create a socket then knot up some pink floss with a white bead on the end. Sew through the socket and knot at the back.

roadkill_bunny_crochet (14)

stuff the head with scraps of yarn or fabric or toy stuffing and sew/crochet the head onto the blood pool base. You might want to also sew around closer to the brown head part to secure the blood flat. This can also be a good opportunity to introduce some messy blood patches – sew loosely with multiple threads to build up a messier finish.

roadkill_bunny_crochet (1)

Pay what you feel

If you liked this pattern and want to contribute to my wool stash so I can make bigger and better things then you can donate whatever amount you think this pattern is worth here. To donate more than £1 just increase the number of items 😉 Thank you!

£1.00

halloween_crochet_bunny_neschof

The version below was my first attempt at this idea, many years ago now. It was very free-form as I wanted a bumpy asymmetric transition from brown to red and an uneven shape of blood pool. I used red satin fabric for the underneath. I like this version the best but it’s difficult to write a coherent pattern for something that’s supposed to be messy and unplanned :)

˜Road-kill Rabbit


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words of the pattern itself are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you’d like to share it then please link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


 

toadstool

seamless_toadstool_crochet_pattern_neschof

This pattern is for a seamless amigurumi mushroom or toadstool with a ribbed underneath to represent the gills. They are made in one piece, starting at the base of the stem and working upwards with instructions for two different shapes of top (one shown as a mushroom with a brown top and the other as a red toadstool here. The purple toadstool with the frilled stem is a slightly freestyle variation, explained at the end of the pattern). They’re all made in a single piece with sewing only needed for the white spots on the toadstool.

What you will need:

*Red, brown and cream or white yarn and a suitable sized hook (the red and brown photos show DK yarn with a 4mm hook making the finished toadstool ~10cm tall). Gauge is not important as the finished mushroom/toadstool will vary in size with type of yarn/size of hook and tightness of crocheting.

*Stuffing

*A stitch marker

*A yarn needle for sewing on the white toadstool spots

Techniques/stitches used:

Magic ring, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, changing colour. Pattern is written using american crochet terms.

Stem and ribbing – these steps are the same for the toadstool and mushroom. Use cream or white yarn and a suitable size hook for the type of yarn used. We will be working in a continuous spiral – use a stitch marker to keep track of rounds. Crochet into the back loop only of all stitches (this creates the dense amigurumi style surface with smaller holes than between normal stitches).

Round 1. Create a magic ring with 6sc and slip stitch closed.
Round 2. 2sc in each stitch (12 stitches total)
Round 3. *2sc, sc*  *repeat 6 times (18 stitches)
Round 4. *2sc, sc, sc*  *repeat 6 times (24 stitches)

Round 5-9. 1sc in each stitch
Round 10. *miss 1 stitch, sc the next 7 stitches*
*repeat 3 times (21 stitches)
Round 11. 1sc in each stitch
Round 12. *miss 1 stitch, sc the next 6 stitches*
*repeat 3 times (18 stitches)
Round 13. 1sc in each stitch
Round 14. *miss 1 stitch, sc the next 5 stitches*
*repeat 3 times (15 stitches)
Round 15. 1sc in each stitch
Round 16. *miss 1 stitch, sc the next 4 stitches*
*repeat 3 times (12 stitches)
Round 17. 1sc in each stitch

toadstool_stem3
Stuff firmly adding weight to the base if desired (you could use plastic pellets, lentils or rice wrapped in a scrap of fabric to stop them falling through the stitches.) However none of the toadstools shown in this pattern have weight added and they do stand up on their own with a little moulding of the base.
Do not fasten off but turn so the hole is towards you and continue on with the gills….

Gills – An impression of the gills seen on the underside of mushrooms is made by creating a ribbed circle. Work into the back loop only of all stitches (this is essential to create the ribbed effect as we work back and forth).
Step 1. Chain 8
Step 2. Chain 2, TURN, skip the 2 turning chains and crochet back down the rib: dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc, sc, sl, sl.
Step 3. Slip stitch into the next sc of the stem top. TURN

toadstool_gills1
Step 4. Crochet back up the ribbing: sl, sl, sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc.
Repeat steps 2-4 all around the stem top until you slip stitch into the last sc of the stem top as shown in the photo below.


Step 5. Hold the two edges of ribbing together and slip stitch back up to the outer edge going through both sides as shown in the photo to complete the circle.

toadstool_gills_sewing
Do not fasten off but turn the work so the open end is facing you and continue on to the mushroom or toadstool top instructions….

Mushroom style top – We are now returning to working in rounds – change colour to brown and reattach your stitch marker. We are still working into the back loop only of all stitches (to create an amigurumi style dense surface).
Round 1. In brown sc all around the ribbing. 2sc into each treble and 2sc into each turning chain. This should equal 48 stitches for one complete round. (places to stitch are shown as red dots on the photo below but as long as you end up with the correct number and they are fairly evenly spaced then you don’t need to be exact)

start of top highlighting stitch locations

Round 2. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 7 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (42 stitches)
Round 3. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 6 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (36 stitches)
Round 4. 1sc in each stitch (36 stitches)
Round 5. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 5 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (30 stitches)
Round 6. 1sc in each stitch (30 stitches)
Round 7. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 4 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (24 stitches)
Round 8. 1sc in each stitch (24 stitches)

mushroom_top1
Round 9. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 3 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (18 stitches)
Add a small amount of stuffing to the centre only. (Try experimenting with different amounts of stuffing to give different shapes.)

mushroom_top2
Round 10. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 2 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 11. *Miss 1 stitch, slip stitch next stitch.*    *repeat 6 times (6 stitches)
Slip stitch into the 3rd stitch from the hook to close the hole, fasten off and weave in any loose ends.

mushroom1

Toadstool style top – We are now returning to working in rounds – change colour to red and reattach your stitch marker. We are still working into the back loop only of all stitches.
Round 1. In red sc all around the ribbing. 2sc into each treble and 2sc into each turning chain. This should equal 48 stitches for one complete round. (places to stitch are shown as red dots on the photo below but as long as you end up with the correct number and they are fairly evenly spaced then you don’t need to be exact)

start of top highlighting stitch locations
Round 2. 1sc in each stitch (48 stitches)

toadstool_top1
Round 3. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 7 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (42 stitches)
Round 4. 1sc in each stitch (42 stitches)
Round 5. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 6 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (36 stitches)
Round 6. 1sc in each stitch (36 stitches)

toadstool_top2
Round 7. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 5 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (30 stitches)
Round 8. 1sc in each stitch (30 stitches)
Round 9. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 4 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (24 stitches)
Round 10. 1sc in each stitch (24 stitches)
Round 11. *Miss 1 stitch, sc next 3 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (18 stitches)
Stuff, but not overly – the top should be pushed down over the stem to create a bell shape. Different amounts of stuffing will create different effects. Experiment!

toadstool_top3
Round 12. *Miss 1 stitch, dc next 2 stitches.*    *repeat 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 13. *Miss 1 stitch, slip stitch next stitch.*    *repeat 6 times (6 stitches)
Slip stitch into the 3rd stitch from the hook to close the hole, fasten off and weave in any loose ends.

toadstool2

Spots – use the same colour yarn as the stem
Small spot:
Create a magic ring with 6sc, slip stitch closed, slip stitch the next stitch and fasten off leaving a tail long enough for sewing on.

toadstool_spots
Large spot:
Round 1. Create a magic ring with 6sc, slip stitch closed.
Round 2. 2sc into each stitch (12 stitches)
Slip stitch the next 2 stitches and fasten off leaving a tail long enough for sewing on.
Make 1 large and 2 small spots (or as many of each as you like) and sew on to the top of the toadstool.

toadstool1


Pay what you feel

If you liked this pattern and want to contribute to my wool stash so I can make bigger and better things then you can donate whatever amount you think this pattern is worth here. To donate more than £1 just increase the number of items 😉 Thank you!

£1.00



The large purple version of the toadstool was created following the pattern above  with modifications as follows:

The stem was created with two stands of yarn and a 5.5mm hook. One strand was cream with flecks of brown and the other white and slightly fluffy/textured. on rounds 6 and 8 of the stem 2 strands of the white textured yarn was used and sc stitches were alternated with puff stitches (yarn over, hook through next sc, pull loop through sc and onto hook x 3  (7 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops). On round 11 I switched to two strands of the cream yarn. The gills were created exactly as written here using a single strand of the cream yarn and a 3.5mm hook. The top is two strands of slightly different and colour shifting shades of purple and made using the mushroom style top. This produces a large chunky and frilled stem with a smaller diameter top by comparison to the standard pattern. The junction between stem and top is very firmly stuffed so that it can be posed at a stable jaunty angle.

new_toadstool (8)


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words of the pattern itself are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you’d like to share it then please link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


 

carrot

20180603_crochet_carrot (5)

you will need a very small amount of orange yarn and a few scraps of green yarn. You should use a hook one or two sizes smaller than that recommended for your orange yarn, this will make the stitches dense and compact.

The pattern is written in American terms but only slip stitches and single crochet stitches are used throughout. If you prefer English terms then just swap all the sc for dc and you’re good to go.

insert the hook into the loops on the right side of the piece (outside of the loop) only throughout.

20180603_crochet_carrot (8)

  1. ch 9, slip stitch into the first chain to form a loop
  2. 1sc each stitch (9 stitches)
  3. 1sc each stitch (9 stitches)
  4. skip first stitch, 1sc each stitch (8 stitches)
  5. 1sc each stitch (8 stitches)
  6. skip first stitch, 1sc each stitch (7 stitches)
  7. 1sc each stitch (7 stitches)
  8. skip first stitch, 1sc each stitch (6 stitches)
  9. skip first stitch, 1sc each stitch (5 stitches)
  10. skip first stitch, 1sc each stitch (4 stitches)
  11. skip first stitch, slip stitch the next three stitches, fasten off and cut, leaving a small tail

20180603_crochet_carrot (9)

optionally stuff the cut off ends into the top of the carrot to fill it out a little.

cut 3 lengths of green yarn ~4x longer than the carrot

20180603_crochet_carrot (10)

fold the green yarn in half and then half again as shown in the photo above. Insert hook through both layers of orange at the top of the carrot, toward one side, and pull through a loop of one of the green folded strands. pull the loose ends through and tighten

20180603_crochet_carrot (3)

repeat twice more with the other green strands, spacing evenly across the top of the carrot and then trim to a length you like

I added a pin to the back of mine to turn it into a brooch


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


 

 

Market Bag

crochet_market_bag_neschof

You will need two colours of dk/worsted/aran weight yarn and a 5mm hook. The two yarns should be approximately the same thickness. Here I needed ~35g of pink and ~45g of oatmeal yarn.

As you’re making this bag it may seem small and you might be tempted to increase some of the rounds or make the handle longer – I did exactly this during my first two trials of this pattern and they looked great before I put anything into them. This bag stretches a lot! You can find some photos at the end of this post showing this.

20180528_crochet_market_bag (9)

The pattern is written using American terms but the whole thing only uses double crochet stitches so switch this out for trebles if you prefer English terms.

Throughout the pattern the initial chain 3 counts as the first stitch of the round.

note that I’m left handed so the photos show the work from a left handed perspective – don’t worry if your work looks the mirror image of what you see here!

Start. using the first colour chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain

Round 1. chain 3, 14 dc into the ring, slst into the top of the starting chain (15 stitches)

20180528_crochet_market_bag (4)

 

Round 2. chain 3, dc into same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, slst into the top of the starting chain (30 stitches)

20180528_crochet_market_bag (5)

Round 3. chain 3, dc into same stitch, dc next stitch, *2dc, dc* repeat all around, slst into the top of the starting chain (45 stitches)

Round 4. chain 3, dc into same stitch, dc next 2 stitches, *2dc, dc, dc* repeat all around, slst into the top of the starting chain (60 stitches)

Round 5. chain 3, dc into same stitch, dc next 3 stitches, *2dc, dc, dc, dc* repeat all around, slst into the top of the starting chain (75 stitches)

Round 6. chain 3, dc into same stitch, dc next 4 stitches, *2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc* repeat all around, slst into the top of the starting chain (90 stitches)

note that in the next round we do not dc into the same stitch as the chain 3 at the beginning of the round. This is because we want to have an even number of stitches to begin the mesh pattern.

Round 7. chain 3, dc next 5 stitches, *2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc* repeat all around, slst into the top of the starting chain (104 stitches)

20180528_crochet_market_bag (6)

Round 8. chain 4 (counts as dc + ch1), *skip 1 dc, dc, ch1* repeat all around, slst into top of the starting chain

20180528_crochet_market_bag (7)

Round 9. chain 4 (counts as dc + ch1), *dc into next dc, ch1* repeat all around, slst into top of the starting chain

Repeat round 9 twice more

20180528_crochet_market_bag (8)

change to second colour yarn. I like to use the Russian join technique as it gives a seamless transition and there are no ends to weave in. check out this craftsy tutorial if you’d like to give it a go

Repeat round 9 six times with the new colour yarn

20180528_crochet_market_bag (13)

Round 10. chain 3, 1dc in each dc all around, slst into top of the starting chain

20180531_crochet_market_bag (2)

Round 11. chain 3, 1dc in each dc all around, slst into top of the starting chain

Now we start to make the handle

Step 1. chain 3, 1dc in next 13 stitches (14 stitches)

Step 2. turn, chain 3, 1dc in next 12 stitches (13 stitches)

Step 3. turn, chain 3, 1dc in next 11 stitches (12 stitches)

Step 4. turn, chain 3, 1dc in next 10 stitches (11 stitches)

Step 5. turn, chain 3, 1dc in next 9 stitches (10 stitches)

Step 6. turn, chain 3, 1dc in next 8 stitches (9 stitches)

Step 7. turn, chain 3, 1dc in next 7 stitches (8 stitches)

20180531_crochet_market_bag (3)

Step 8. turn, chain 3, 1dc in each dc of the previous row (including the turning chain of the previous row) (8 stitches)

Repeat step 8 fourteen times

Step 9. turn, chain 3, dc into same stitch and each stitch across (including the turning chain of the previous row) (9 stitches)

Repeat step 9 until you again have 14 stitches in the row

20180531_crochet_market_bag (4)

lay out the bag and line up the unattached handle with the centre of the opposite edge. Either crochet slip stitch or fasten off and sew onto the rim

and finished!

crochet_market_bag_neschof


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


At the beginning of this post I mentioned that the bag may seem small but it stretches a huge amount. The first bag I made to this pattern had more rows and a longer handle. It looked perfect when it was empty but here’s what happened when I put a few heavy items inside:

it’s not terrible but it’s also not the most comfortable bag to carry back from the shops.

Here are equivalent photos of the smaller bag:

honeycomb cowl

IMG_20180421_112009_691

I’m almost always wearing a scarf. I like to be warm and having a warm neck somehow filters down through the rest of me. A cowl is just a tube you wear around your neck for the same reason you would wear a scarf. It can be short and close fitting (a neck warmer), looser and long enough to pull up over your head (a snood) or even wide enough to wear around your shoulders. I prefer the close-fitting neck warmer variety but might be tempted to make a snood one day.

This cowl is Tunisian crochet, honeycomb stitch in the round, using a dk weight colour changing yarn in the forward direction and a chunky solid purple yarn for the return direction. I used a 9mm double ended crochet hook and started with a chain of 59 but you might need to adjust for your own tension, yarn and requirements. You need an odd number of stitches for the honeycomb pattern but you can count up and adjust by one after the first round if needed. These instructions assume you’re already familiar with Tunisian crochet in the round – if not, then there are loads of great tutorials on you tube and other places to get you started – you probably don’t want to make this stitch your first experience with Tunisian crochet :)

IMG_20180420_090742_975

  1. using a 9mm double ended hook, chain 59 using the dk yarn
  2. straighten out the length of chains and slip stitch into the first chain
  3. for the first round take the bump thread on the back of the chain (makes a nice finished edge) onto the hook and complete the reverse stitches as normal with the chunky yarn
  4. once the first round is complete alternate on each forward stitch between Tunisian simple stitch (TSS) and Tunisian purl stitch (TPS). complete the return as normal
  5. just keep going around until the piece measures ~20cm. From the second round, each TSS should be going into a purl stitch in the round below (looks knotted and twisted) and each TPS should be going into a simple stitch in the round below (looks open and straight)
  6. fasten off the chunky return yarn and complete one round of regular sc in the thinner dk yarn to give a nice finished edge that mirrors the first round
  7. fasten off and weave in ends

I used this video by Tuula Maaria to learn the honeycomb stitch so check that out if you find watching easier than reading.

Here is the finished cowl:

IMG_20180421_105455

and inside out:

IMG_20180421_105434

IMG_20180421_112009_691

penguin amigurumi

A quick and cute amigurumi penguin pattern for January. We’ll be working in a spiral using a stitch marker to keep track of the rounds. Crochet into the back loop only of all stitches and I’ll be using American crochet terms. I used a 4mm hook and worsted weight yarn but use whatever you like and he’ll just turn out a little bigger or smaller.

Round 1. With grey yarn create a magic ring containing 6sc.

Round 2. 2sc into each stitch (12 stitches total)

Round 3. *2sc into first stitch, 1sc in next stitch. *repeat 6 times (18 stitches total)

Round 4. *2sc into first stitch, 1sc in each of next 2 stitches. *repeat 6 times (24 stitches total)

˜Round 5-14. 1sc in each stitch.

Round 15. *miss 1 stitch, 1sc in each of next 3 stitches. *repeat 6 times (18 stitches total)

Round 16-18. 1sc in each stitch.

STUFF

Round 19. *miss 1 stitch, 1sc in each of next 2 stitches. *repeat 6 times (12 stitches total)

Round 20. slip stitch next 3 stitches, sc, sc, sc, dc, dc, dc, sc, sc, sc. (12 stitches total)

Round 21. 1sc in each stitch.

Round 22. slip stitch next 3 stitches, sc, sc, sc, dc, dc, dc, sc, sc, sc. (12 stitches total)

Round 23. 1sc in each stitch.

STUFF

Round 24. *miss 1 stitch, sc next stitch. *repeat 6 times (6 stitches total)

Round 25-26. Change colour to yellow and 1sc in each stitch.

Round 27. *miss 1 stitch, sc next stitch. *repeat until no stitches left.

Fasten off and sew all ends through the body, pull tight and cut off so the end disappears inside.

Cut out an elongated semi circle shape in white felt as shown in the photos and sew to the front using blanket stitch or whatever you like the look of. Sew through the body and the corner of the felt piece a few times in yellow, as shown, to create feet.

Use black thread and create French knots for eyes (I couldn’t get them to work so just embroidered little circles but I think the knots would look better if you can do them.)

˜


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting

lace spiral coaster

I’ve seen many different instructions for this kind of spiral pattern and I tried a few but they didn’t seem to work out properly so I started from scratch and came up with my own method that produces a nice flat piece of work. I used crochet thread and a 2.5mm hook but there’s no reason you can’t scale it up.

This pattern is written using American crochet terms but there’s just the one stitch so if you prefer English terms then simply dc throughout.

spiral_coaster_crochet_neschof

 

Round 1: create a magic ring with 6sc and slip stitch closed.

Round 2: *chain 3 and sc into the next stitch* six times to take you all around the circle. you should have created 6 loops.

Round 3: *1sc into the next loop, chain 3 and then sc between the next two loops* six times to take you all around the circle.

Round 4: sc into the next stitch *2sc into the next loop, chain 3, skip the next stitch and sc into the next stitch* repeat between the *stars* six times to take you all around the circle.

Round 5: *sc each stitch to take you to the next loop (this will be 2 sc on round 5, 3 sc on round 6 etc), 2sc into the next loop, chain 3, skip the next stitch and sc into the next stitch* repeat between the stars six times to take you all around the circle.

Repeat round 5 until the piece is as big as you would like. you don’t need to keep track of rounds – once you get the hang of the pattern this is really easy and you can just keep going in a spiral without having to count stitches or keep track of where you are. just carry on until the work is the size you would like.

Last round: sc each stitch and 5 sc into each loop. slip stitch the last few stitches, fasten off and weave in ends.

block or press if needed.


Pay what you feel

If you liked this pattern and want to contribute to my wool stash so I can make bigger and better things then you can donate whatever amount you think this pattern is worth here. To donate more than £1 just increase the number of items 😉 Thank you!

£1.00


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


 

Rainbow unicorn

Look at those eyes… he’s definitely a badass. Or maybe squinting at the sun.

ninja-unicorn-crochet-pattern

What you’ll need:

  • white yarn
  • a small amount of pink yarn
  • small scraps of various/rainbow coloured yarn
  • silver crochet cotton or embroidery floss
  • suitable sized hooks for the yarns and cotton used
  • yarn needle
  • regular needle
  • black thread

This pattern is written using American crochet terms. Gauge is not important – he’ll just be slightly bigger or smaller depending on the hook and yarn used. I used a 4.5mm hook and the finished unicorn is about 20cm tall. Crochet into the back loop only of all stitches unless the instructions say otherwise and continue working in a spiral, using a stitch marker to keep track of rounds. I’m left handed and so the diagram for the legs is also left handed. You’ll need to reverse the direction if you’re right handed (ie. anti-clockwise).

The basic form of this pattern is based on my one piece giraffe pattern so some of the initial photos show orange and brown yarn but the process is the same.

HEAD

Round 1. With white yarn create a magic ring containing 6sc.

Round 2. 2sc into each stitch (12 stitches total)

Round 3. *2sc into first stitch, 1sc in next stitch. *repeat 6 times (18 stitches total)

Round 4. *2sc into first stitch, 1sc in each of next 2 stitches. *repeat 6 times (24 stitches total)

Round 5. 1sc in each stitch.

Round 6. *miss 1 stitch, 1sc in each of next 3 stitches. *repeat 6 times (18 stitches total)

Round 7. *miss 1 stitch, 1sc in each of next 2 stitches. *repeat 6 times (12 stitches total)

STUFF. Do not fasten off but continue with neck

˜
˜it should look like this but in white yarn

NECK

Round 8-11. 1sc in each stitch.

STUFF

Round 12. *2sc into first stitch, 1sc in next stitch. *repeat 6 times (18 stitches total)

Round 13-14. 1sc in each stitch.

Round 15. *2sc into first stitch, 1sc in each of next 2 stitches. *repeat 6 times (24 stitches total)

Round 16. sc 9 stitches, hdc, 2dc, 2dc, 2dc, 2dc, hdc, sc 9 stitches (28 stitches total)

Round 17. sc 9 stitches, hdc, dc, 2dc, dc, 2dc, dc, 2dc, dc, 2dc, hdc, sc 9 stitches (32 stitches total)

˜
˜yours will be white and with a shorter neck

Round 18. sc 10 stitches, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, 2dc, 2dc, 2dc, 2dc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc 10 stitches (36 stitches total)

Round 19-22. 1sc in each stitch.

Do not fasten off but continue with legs:

LEGS

Round 1. The next stitch you are about to complete is stitch number one and there are 36 stitches in the round (see the diagram below)

sc 9 stitches, chain 9, sc back into stitch number one to create a loop. Continue in the direction you are going:

Round 2-5. 1sc in each stitch.

Round 6. Change colour to pink. 1sc in each stitch.

Round 7. *miss 1 stitch, 1sc in each of next 3 stitches. *repeat until there are only a few stitches left, slip stitch the hole closed and fasten off.

˜
˜again, this will be white and pink with a short neck

With white yarn start at stitch 10 (on the diagram – the next stitch from the leg you just completed) and repeat steps 1 to 7 for the second leg.

˜
˜white and pink!

Repeat for the remaining two legs, starting at stitch 19 and 28 respectively.

Stuff the legs and the body

˜
˜final photo from the giraffe pattern

Using white yarn stitch the legs together.

body
Hurray finally a pic showing white and pink!

NOSE

Round 1. With pink yarn create a magic ring containing 6sc.

Round 2. 2sc into each stitch (12 stitches total)

Round 3-5. 1sc in each stitch.

STUFF and sew onto front of head

nose

MANE & TAIL

Attach short lengths of multi-coloured yarn as shown in the photos below and trim as desired. I tried many different methods for the tail – spiky, knotted, plaited – but they didn’t quite look right. Eventually I just went for fairly long with one strand wound around like a hairband to keep it neat.

HORN

Round 1. With silver crochet cotton and a suitable sized hook chain 8 and slip stitch into the first chain.

Round 2-3. 1sc in each chain around (8 stitches)

*Skip one stitch, sc in next 3 stitches* 4 times

*Skip one stitch, sc in next stitch* until no stitches left. Fasten off and trim

Sew onto centre of head

EARS

Attach white yarn to one side of the head and complete 3sc into 3 stiches in the head in a line at right angles to the mane.

Turn, skip 1sc, sc into next 2 stitches.

Turn, skip 1sc, sc into the remaining stich. Fasten off and trim.

Repeat on the other side of the head, mirroring the direction of the first ear

FINISHING

Using black thread sew eyes (slightly downward sloping lines for a ninja expression) and two patches on the nose for nostrils. Weave in any loose ends and give him a name fit for a rainbow unicorn. I went with Tim :)

ninja-unicorn-crochet-pattern


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting

grit stitch placemat & coaster set

 

This crochet stitch is nice and thick with an interesting texture to look at. It’s very easy and only uses sc and dc stitches but looks much more complex than a simple sc or dc all throughout.

This pattern uses American crochet terms. For English terms replace sc with dc and dc with tr and you’re all set.

Any dk weight yarn and a 4mm hook should work for the stitch numbers given in the pattern. The yarn I used was a thin grey recycled cotton so I doubled it up to make it ~dk/worsted. If you’re using a different thickness, a different sized hook and / or you crochet particularly loose or tightly then you may need to adjust the number of stitches and rows to get the size you want.

Placemat

row 1. Chain 53

{for different sized projects you can chain any even number + 3. The even numbered chain will be a good approximation to the finished size}

row 2. dc in 3rd chain from hook, *skip one stitch, 1sc and 1dc into the next stitch*

* repeat across the row until there are only 2 stitches left and end with 1sc in the last stitch of the row.

row 3. chain 2, turn, dc into the sc at the end of the last row (the 3rd chain/stitch from the hook), *skip one stitch, 1sc and 1dc into the next stitch*

* repeat across the row until there are only 2 stitches left and end with 1sc in the last stitch of the row.

Repeat row 3 until the piece is as big as you would like the placemat – I completed 30 rows in total.

Do not fasten off but turn the work 90 degrees and continue in the direction you are going – sc all around the edge with 3sc in each corner. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Coaster

Follow the same instructions as for the placemat but to begin chain 17 and I completed 12 rows but you should add or subtract a few to make them square. Finish by sc-ing all around the edge with 3sc in each corner as for the placemat.

Blocking will make them more square if you want that but I never bothered and think they look fine as is.


Pay what you feel

If you liked this pattern and want to contribute to my wool stash so I can make bigger and better things then you can donate whatever amount you think this pattern is worth here. To donate more than £1 just increase the number of items 😉 Thank you!

£1.00


some people have been saying in the comments that they’re having trouble and seem to be losing stitches between rows. Here are some step by step photos of a small piece starting with a chain of 11 (i.e. 8 + 3):

dc in the 3rd chain from the hook

grit_stitch (5)grit_stitch (1)

now skip one chain and complete 1sc and 1dc in the next chain:

grit_stitch (2)grit_stitch (2) ALT

continue in this way to the end of the row until there are only two chains left. skip one chain and complete a single sc in the last chain of the row (in green below):

grit_stitch (3)

row complete:

grit_stitch (4)

to start the next row, chain 2, turn and then dc into the final sc of the previous row. Then continue as normal (skip one stitch, sc then dc in the next stitch) until there are only two stitches left. Again, just a single sc in the final stitch (green) completes the row:

grit_stitch (7)

grit_stitch (8)


crochet-placemat-6


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


 

crochet cactus pin cushion

 

crochet cactus pin cushion (62)

you will need:

for the cactus stem and arm

  • green yarn – worsted or chunky
  • 4mm, 4.5mm or 5mm hook suitable for your chosen green yarn (it’s best to use a slightly smaller hook than the yarn suggests so you get a tight structure that is stable and does not show stuffing through the gaps. A smaller hook is harder work though as the stitches will be tight – I’ll leave it to you to decide!)
  • soft stuffing (I used old yarn off-cuts…)

for the base

  • heavy stuffing (I used dried lentils)
  • small amount of brown material
  • a small plant pot (plus paint etc. if you want to decorate the pot)
  • needle and thread

for the flower

  • small scrap of pink yarn and yellow yarn or thread for sewing onto the cactus
  • hook of a size suitable for the pink yarn
  • needle / yarn needle

or for the alternative / realistic flower option:

  • 2mm hook
  • pink, yellow and white thread
  • needle

techniques / stitches used:

All crochet terms and abbreviations are as defined by the Craft Yarn Council. American names for stitches are used so be aware of that if you’re used to another system.

  • magic circle (can be substituted by chain 4, slip stitch into first chain and complete required number of stitches into the loop. this does leave a small hole that the stuffing will show through though so the magic circle is preferred)
  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • db – double crochet
  • FPsc – front post single crochet
  • BPsc – back post single crochet

cactus stemcrochet cactus pin cushion (19)

  • rnd1. magic circle with 6sc. sl st to 1st sc (6)
  • rnd2. 2sc in each stitch (12)
  • rnd3 & 4. 1sc in each stitch (12)
  • rnd5. [FPsc, BPsc] x 6 (12)  for the first few rounds this might be tricky and a bit tight but stick with it and soon you will see the ridges appear. It is best to work with the outside of the work facing you – this may need you to turn it inside out after round 4. Once you’ve completed a few rounds then it is simple to just FPsc into every FPsc and BPsc into every BPsc. stuff firmly as you go.
  • repeat rnd5 until stem is ~10cm long, fasten off.

cactus armcrochet cactus pin cushion (35)

  • rnd1. magic circle with 6sc. sl st to 1st sc (6)
  • rnd2. 2sc in each stitch (12)
  • rnd3 & 4. 1sc in each stitch (12)
  • rnd5. [FPsc, BPsc] x 6 (12)
  • repeat rnd5 until arm is ~5cm long. stuff firmly as you go.
  • [3sl st, sc, 2hdc, 3dc, 2hdc, sc] x 2 (12)
  • 1sc each stitch (12), fasten off.

flowercrochet cactus pin cushion (34)

  • rnd1. magic circle with 6sc. sl st to 1st sc (6)
  • rnd2.  [sl st, ch3, sl st same stitch] x 6 (6 petals), fasten off

alternative / realistic flowercrochet cactus pin cushion (23)

 

  • rnd1. in yellow. magic circle with 6sc. sl st to 1st sc (6)
  • rnd2. [2sc, sc] x 3 (9)
  • rnd3. change to pink. sc each stitch (9)
  • rnd4. sc, [ch6, sc] x 9 (9 loops)
  • rnd5. [3sc into next loop, ch3, 3sc into same loop] x 9 (9 loops).
  • fasten off. your flower should look like the photo to the right:crochet cactus pin cushion (29)
  • attach white thread into any of the ch-3 petal tips.
  • rnd6. [ch1, sc into next ch-3 petal tip] x 9
  • fasten off.

base

cut a rough circle of brown fabric 2 to 3 diameters larger than your pot and loosely sew all around the edge:

pull on the two ends of thread to gather the fabric into a pouch, loosely stuff, pull the thread tightly and sew through a few times to secure. (important! only fill the base ~75% with your heavy stuffing material. it should be like a tiny bean bag. The extra space allows the base to be molded so the cactus can be free standing and does not tip over).

crochet cactus pin cushion (16)

decorate your plant pot in any way you choose:

crochet cactus pin cushion (53)

Sew together all the components, covering the base open end with the cactus stem, place into the plant pot and stick with pins. The flexible base allows the cactus to be free standing or sit in the pot and act as a lid – you can fill the pot with other sewing bits and bobs such as safety pins, a tape measure, etc.


Pay what you feel

If you liked this pattern and want to contribute to my wool stash so I can make bigger and better things then you can donate whatever amount you think this pattern is worth here. To donate more than £1 just increase the number of items 😉 Thank you!

£1.00


crochet cactus pin cushion (2)crochet cactus pin cushion (5)crochet cactus pin cushion (1)crochet cactus pin cushion (31)


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting

one piece giraffe

 

He’s almost one piece. The ears and tail are added after but there’s no annoying sewing on of each leg, etc. individually. I originally posted this pattern a few years back on cult of crochet. I decided to redo the pattern here and convert to American crochet terms. I have plans to use this pattern as a basis for a few other animals so it seemed a good idea to revisit and update first.

Gauge doesn’t matter – you’ll just end up with a slightly bigger or smaller giraffe depending on your yarn / hook combo and how tightly you crochet. The yarn I used here was from a jumper I found in a charity shop so I can’t give you the brand (even though it’s perfect!). I used a 4mm hook and he turned out around 20cm tall.

What you’ll need:

  • orange yarn
  • a small amount of brown yarn
  • a suitable size hook for the yarn used
  • yarn needle
  • regular needle
  • black thread
  • beads/buttons for eyes

This pattern is written using American crochet terms. Crochet into the back loop only of all stitches unless the instructions say otherwise and continue working in a spiral, using a stitch marker to keep track of rounds. I’m left handed and so the diagram for the legs is also left handed. You’ll need to reverse the direction if you’re right handed (ie. anti-clockwise).

HEAD

Round 1. With orange yarn create a magic ring containing 6sc.

Round 2. 2sc into each stitch (12 stitches total)

Round 3. *2sc into first stitch, 1sc in next stitch. *repeat 6 times (18 stitches total)

Round 4. *2sc into first stitch, 1sc in each of next 2 stitches. *repeat 6 times (24 stitches total)

Round 5. 1sc in each stitch.

Round 6. *miss 1 stitch, 1sc in each of next 3 stitches. *repeat 6 times (18 stitches total)

Round 7. *miss 1 stitch, 1sc in each of next 2 stitches. *repeat 6 times (12 stitches total)

STUFF. Do not fasten off but continue with neck

˜

NECK

Round 8-17. 1sc in each stitch.

STUFF FIRMLY – insert a pipe cleaner before stuffing if you would like the neck to be poseable

˜

Round 18. *2sc into first stitch, 1sc in next stitch. *repeat 6 times (18 stitches total)

Round 19-20. 1sc in each stitch.

Round 21. *2sc into first stitch, 1sc in each of next 2 stitches. *repeat 6 times (24 stitches total)

Round 22. sc 9 stitches, hdc, 2dc, 2dc, 2dc, 2dc, hdc, sc 9 stitches (28 stitches total)

˜

Round 23. sc 9 stitches, hdc, dc, 2dc, dc, 2dc, dc, 2dc, dc, 2dc, hdc, sc 9 stitches (32 stitches total)

Round 24. sc 10 stitches, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, 2dc, 2dc, 2dc, 2dc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc 10 stitches (36 stitches total)

Round 25-28. 1sc in each stitch.

˜

Do not fasten off but continue with legs:

LEGS

Round 1. The next stitch you are about to complete is stitch number one and there are 36 stitches in the round (see the diagram below)

sc 9 stitches, chain 9, sc back into stitch number one to create a loop. Continue in the direction you are going:

 

Round 2-5. 1sc in each stitch.

Round 6. Change colour to brown. 1sc in each stitch.

Round 7. *miss 1 stitch, 1sc in each of next 3 stitches. *repeat until there are only a few stitches left, slip stitch the hole closed and fasten off.

˜

With orange start at stitch 10 (on the diagram – the next stitch from the leg you just completed) and repeat steps 1 to 7 for the second leg.

˜

Repeat for the remaining two legs, starting at stitch 19 and 28 respectively.

Stuff the legs and the body:

˜
˜

Using orange yarn stitch the legs together.

Attach a length of orange yarn to the back end and chain ~6 stitches to create a tail:

˜

NOSE

Round 1. With brown yarn create a magic ring containing 6sc.

Round 2. 2sc into each stitch (12 stitches total)

Round 3-5. 1sc in each stitch.

STUFF and sew onto front of head

 

HORNS

Use a crochet hook to pull a length of brown yarn through a stitch on the top of the head. Knot together 4 or 5 times and trim. Repeat on the other side of the head.

˜

EARS (x2)

In brown ch6.

TURN

sl st in 2nd chain from the hook, sc, hdc, dc, sl st.

Fasten off and sew onto the side of the head

 

FINISHING

Using black thread sew buttons or beads to the front of the head for eyes and sew two patches of black on the nose for nostrils. Weave in any loose ends and give him a name like Geoffrey, George or Gerald :)


Pay what you feel

If you liked this pattern and want to contribute to my wool stash so I can make bigger and better things then you can donate whatever amount you think this pattern is worth here. To donate more than £1 just increase the number of items 😉 Thank you!

£1.00


 


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting

Crochet Zombie Phone Case

˜

To make this case first follow the instructions for the flower phone case in grey (or green would look good) up to step 6. Go on, go do that now – we’ll wait for you….

Done that now? and your phone fits nicely inside? Good then let’s continue:

FASTENING STRAP

You don’t have to have a strap to close the top but I think the fact it’s on one side instead of central and that it hooks around the ‘good’ eye all adds to the creepy/quirkiness. Maybe there used to be a strap on the other side too but that eye just couldn’t take the strain….? If you want a strap too then stop your spiralling stitches of the body towards one side and chain long enough to loop down to the centre of the case while the phone is in it. Now sc (American terms or dc English terms) into the next stitch of the case and slip stitch the next few stitches.

HAIR

If you have fluffy yarn like I did then change to this yarn and complete a couple of rounds of 1sc [1dc] in each stitch – keep going until there is as much hair as you want. If you don’t have fluffy yarn then fasten off the grey yarn and you could tie lengths of a contrasting colour yarn around individual stitches on the top of the case and trim them into tufts. This will be more time-consuming but you have more freedom for the hairstyle – odd random tufts, male pattern baldness or a Mohican maybe.

FACE

If you are using a strap then the button eye should be positioned first and used as a basis to build the rest of the face. Put the phone into the case to locate the best position for the button so that the strap fastens easily and securely. For the popping out eye I used a small black bead inside a larger white bead but just a black bead would look great too. Thread the bead onto a length of pink thread or thin yarn and repeatedly knot the thread to create the eye entrails (or whatever they’re actually called!) until it is a good dangling length. Using black thread sew a patch opposite the button to act as an eye socket and pull the ends of the pink thread through either side of the centre of the socket. Tie the ends together and trim inside the case.

Finally using black thread again sew a mouth as shown in the photos or in any expression you like. If you have a Ravelry account then check out the project pictures for inspiration.

Happy Halloween!

watermelon tablet case

IMG_20160615_105123449

or phone or laptop, just adjust the size to suit.

  1. In green chain the width of your tablet/phone/laptop.
  2. sc in 2nd chain from hook and each link in the starting chain.
  3. 2 more sc in the last chain to take you around the corner and then start to work down the opposite side of the starting chain without flipping the work.
  4. sc in each chain down the opposite side.
  5. 1 additional sc in the final chain.
  6. you should now have something resembling the diagram below – a chain with an sc in each side and 3 sc in each end chain.

chain

  1. continue working in a spiral. 1 sc into the back loop only of each stitch. Round and round until the green section is ~1/4 the height of your tablet.
  2. change colour to pink and continue in the same way until the piece covers your tablet.
  3. finish with a round of reverse single crochet, fasten off and weave in the ends.

For the seeds use black crochet thread and a 2mm hook:

  1. chain 11
  2. sc in 2nd chain from hook
  3. sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc, sc
  4. turn the work without flipping so you work down the opposite side of the starting chain.
  5. sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc, sc

fasten off and use tails to sew on to body. It is best to sew the seeds on while the cover is on the item so that it sits correctly when stretched.


This is a free pattern & you can sell any items you make from it – I wish you huge success. It is not required but you would make me very happy if you included a link to this pattern in any blog posts / item listings / etc. Writing and testing a crochet pattern is hard work and I retain copyright of the images and the written pattern so please do not copy or distribute any part of this pattern and do not use these images in your listings – use only images of the actual items you create. Thank you and happy crocheting.

 

tunisian thick and thin hat

 

tunisian crochet hat (16)

I bought some lovely thick and thin off white yarn just over a year ago and I’ve been trying to find something to do with it ever since. Whatever pattern or type of stitch I tried it just looked like a knotted mess because of the abrupt changes in thickness. I can’t remember how I hit on the idea now but in the end I used it to make this hat in Tunisian crochet. It’s just Tunisian simple stitch (tss), in the round, using the thick and thin white yarn for the forward stitches and a slowly colour changing yarn for the return.

I used a 5.5mm double ended Tunisian crochet hook because that’s the only one I have:

  1. chain 90 with the white yarn (or whatever you need to easily fit around your head)
  2. ensuring the chain is not twisted start picking up stitches from the beginning of the chain.
  3. once you have a few on the hook (say 30 or so) turn the hook and start to work the stitches off in your second yarn.
  4. keep going back and forth until the piece is about 12cm (6″) long.
  5. now you start to decrease. When working forwards (white yarn) pick up two stitches together every 10 stitches or so. Keep going this way for another few cm.
  6. now pick up 2 stitches every 5 stitches or so – we are decreasing faster.
  7. When you have less than ~25 stitches left then start to decrease every other stitch. i.e. on the forward pass pick up 1 stitch, then 2 together, then 1, etc.
  8. when you can no longer work because there are too few stitches left on the hook work all the stitches off the hook in the normal way then pull the yarn ends tight and fasten off.
  9. weave in any loose ends and you’re done.

This is a free pattern & you can sell any items you make from it – I wish you huge success. It is not required but you would make me very happy if you included a link to this pattern in any blog posts / item listings / etc. Writing and testing a crochet pattern is hard work and I retain copyright of the images and the written pattern so please do not copy or distribute any part of this pattern and do not use these images in your listings – use only images of the actual items you create. Thank you and happy crocheting.

Broomstick lace

broomstick_lace_neschof

 

Here I’ll show you how to make this cuff as a way of learning the broomstick lace crochet stitch. Even though it looks intricate it’s actually quite a simple stitch so jump in and give it a go.
The photos for this tutorial are from a left handed perspective but the instructions work just as well whether you crochet left or right handed.

˜bracelet 2

˜

Using fluffy or highly textured yarn would be a bit of a waste with this stitch – you need a nice smooth yarn that will show up all the stitches. Select your yarn (you don’t need very much for this small project – the finished bracelet with buttons weighs less than 10g) and a suitably sized hook – here I’ve used bamboo cotton and a 4mm hook. You also need something thicker – the broomstick from the name of the stitch. A thick knitting needle would be perfect because of the tapered point for sliding stitches on and off. I used a 15mm crochet hook. The thicker your “broomstick” the longer the lacy clusters will be.

Step 1. Chain 15 and pick up your “broomstick”.

˜broomstick 1

Step 2. Pull out the loop on the hook and place it over the broomstick. Using your hook work your way down the chain, pulling a loop of yarn through each chain and without twisting it placing it around the broomstick.

Step 3. Once you’ve worked your way down the whole chain you should have 15 loops around the broomstick with a straight chain backbone:

˜broomstick 6

Step 4. Turn the broomstick around so the length of working yarn is at the top. Insert your hook under the first 5 loops on the broomstick as shown below. Yarn over the hook and pull under all 5 loops. Yarn over again and through the single loop on the hook. This is a slip stitch completed just once at the start of every row.

Step 5. *Insert the hook under all 5 loops as before, yarn over the hook and pull under all 5 loops. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. *repeat 4 more times (5 stitches total)

˜Broomstick 11

Step 6. Push this group of 5 loops off the end of your broomstick.

˜broomstick 12

Step 7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the next group of 5 loops.

˜broomstick 13

Step 8. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the final 5 loops and remove the work completely from the broomstick.

˜broomstick 14

Oh dear – it doesn’t look very lacy and swishy like all those lovely photos you’ve seen does it? Not to worry – pick up the work and hold it vertically so the starting chain is in one hand and the row of stitches you’ve just completed is in the other.

˜broomstick 15

Pull these rows apart to reveal the lovely loopy broomstick stitches. There’s no need to be gentle – the work should be quite solid and able to withstand some tugging. This is where using smooth yarn gives another advantage as straightening it up is much easier. If it’s being stubborn then pull on individual loops to even them up – again don’t worry about being rough – you can always pull them back – nothing will unravel.

Phew! That looks much more like it. Row 1 is complete and you should have 15 stitches.

˜broomstick 16

Step 9. pull out the working loop and put it around the broomstick as you did in step 2. Just like step 2 work your way down the row of stitches pulling loops through the work and putting them on the broomstick.

At the end of the row you should again have 15 loops around the broomstick.

Step 10. Repeat steps 4 to 8 to complete this next row.

Continue repeating this process and after a few rows your work should look something like this:

˜broomstick 21
From the couple of sites I looked at I think this is generally considered to be the front of the work but I much prefer the other side which seems more delicate and lacy:

˜broomstick 22

Continue adding rows until the bracelet fits snugly around your wrist. I needed 9 rows. Fasten off and weave in ends.

˜broomstick 23

You could add another row or two and simply slip stitch the work into a ring for a loose bracelet but I preferred it to be snug and actually think the buttons look good and I wear them facing out. If you want buttons then sew 3 onto the front side of the starting chain end. The loops of your last row will act as button holes.


Pay what you feel

If you liked this pattern and want to contribute to my wool stash so I can make bigger and better things then you can donate whatever amount you think this pattern is worth here. To donate more than £1 just increase the number of items 😉 Thank you!

£1.00



Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


 


broomstick_lace_neschof

Sandwich coaster set

sandwich_coaster_crochet_neschof

All items use worsted weight yarn and a 4.5mm hook

American terms are in red and English are in green

Bread (Make two)

Row 1. in light brown Ch17
IMG_2275

Row 2. sc [dc] in 2nd ch from hook and each across (16 stitches)

Row 3 – 16. ch1, turn, sc [dc] each stitch of previous row (16 stitches)

Row 17.

American: ch1, turn, 7tr in 4th stitch of previous row, skip 3 stitches, sc, skip 3 stitches, 7tr, skip 3 stitches, sc in last stitch of previous row.

English: ch1, turn, 7dtr in 4th stitch of previous row, skip 3 stitches, dc, skip 3 stitches, 7dtr, skip 3 stitches, dc in last stitch of previous row.

fasten off.

In dark brown sc [dc] in each stitch and end of row all around to make the crust. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ham (as easy as it gets!)IMG_2277

Row 1. in pink Ch17

Row 2. sc [dc] in 2nd ch from hook and each across

Row 3 – 16. ch1, turn, sc [dc] each stitch of previous row (16 stitches). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Lettuce

In green make a magic ring (or ch3, slst into first stitch).

American terms:

Round 1. 6sc into the ringIMG_2278

Round 2. 2sc in each dc (12)

Round 3. *2sc, 1sc* repeat between ** all around (18)

Round 4. *2sc, 1sc, 1sc* repeat between ** all around (24)

Round 5. *2sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc* repeat between ** all around (30)

Continue this pattern until the disc measures ~9cm in diameter

Final round. 2dc in each stitch. (if you want it more frilly then repeat this round again). Fasten off and weave in ends.

English terms:

Round 1. 6dc into the ringIMG_2278

Round 2. 2dc in each dc (12)

Round 3. *2dc, 1dc* repeat between ** all around (18)

Round 4. *2dc, 1dc, 1dc* repeat between ** all around (24)

Round 5. *2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc* repeat between ** all around (30)

Continue this pattern until the disc measures ~9cm in diameter

Final round. 2tr in each stitch. (if you want it more frilly then repeat this round again). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Tomato

In light red or pink or peach make a magic ring (or ch3, slst into first stitch).

American terms:

Round 1. 6sc into the ringIMG_2276

Round 2. 2sc in each sc (12)

Round 3. *2sc, 1sc* repeat between ** all around (18)

Round 4. *2sc, 1sc, 1sc* repeat between ** all around (24)

Round 5. *2sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc* repeat between ** all around (30)

English terms:

Round 1. 6dc into the ringIMG_2276

Round 2. 2dc in each dc (12)

Round 3. *2dc, 1dc* repeat between ** all around (18)

Round 4. *2dc, 1dc, 1dc* repeat between ** all around (24)

Round 5. *2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc* repeat between ** all around (30)

Continue this pattern until the disc measures ~9cm in diameter then complete a final round of the pattern using red yarn. Fasten off and weave in ends. (save your red off cuts for stuffing the olive).

Using red yarn sew on segment shapes as shown in the picture (or you could use red felt or material). For the seeds knot green yarn around the red threads and trim short.

Swiss CheeseIMG_2279

I can’t remember well enough how I made the holes for this so these instructions are just for a solid slice of cheese – essentially exactly the same as the ham but in cheese coloured yarn.

Row 1. in yellow/orange Ch17

Row 2. sc [dc] in 2nd ch from hook and each across

Row 3 – 16. ch1, turn, sc [dc] each stitch of previous row (16 stitches). Fasten off and weave in ends.

olive

Work into back loops only for all stitchesIMG_2281

In green make a magic ring (or ch3, slst into first stitch).

American terms:

Round 1. 6sc into the ring

Round 2. 2sc in each sc (12)

Round 3 – 5. 1sc in each sc (12)

Round 6. sc2tog, sc2tog, sc2tog, stuff with red yarn off cuts, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc2tog (6). Fasten off and weave in ends.

English terms:

Round 1. 6dc into the ring

Round 2. 2dc in each dc (12)

Round 3 – 5. 1dc in each dc (12)

Round 6. dc2tog, dc2tog, dc2tog, stuff with red yarn off cuts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc2tog (6). Fasten off and weave in ends.


Pay what you feel

If you liked this pattern and want to contribute to my wool stash so I can make bigger and better things then you can donate whatever amount you think this pattern is worth here. To donate more than £1 just increase the number of items 😉 Thank you!

£1.00


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


sandwich_coaster_crochet_neschof

Bobbly Kindle (ipad/laptop/phone) case pattern

A cosy, lined case covered in a pattern of tiny little bobbles. It is very thick and textured. For laptops, kindles, ipads or phones! The instructions are very detailed with lots of photos. The case I make in the instructions is to fit a kindle but general instructions are also given so it can be made any size. As always I use English crochet terms and include a conversion chart for American terms.

What you will need:
• 3mm hook
• Chunky yarn or thinner yarn (~dk) doubled up.
• Lining material
• 2, 3 (or 4 or more!) buttons of your choice
• Pins (to pin the lining to the case)
• Thread and needle for sewing on the lining and buttons
• Optional – extra wadding/padding to go between the lining and the crochet if you are making a large case, such as for a laptop.

You may sell items you make from this pattern as long as you credit my blog as the source of the pattern and provide a link to the page where the pattern can be purchased.

Fully illustrated, detailed instructions are available for £1 (that’s about $1.60 at the time of writing). You can either buy now via paypal or purchase through Ravelry:

I’ll be working on more free patterns soon so do keep checking back.

Running Armband

IMG_20180513_151122_936.jpgI hate running but gimmicky gadgets will get me to try anything and so I found myself looking forward to a jog around after I installed miCoach from adidas on my phone – it’s really cool and free so I do recommend giving it a try. This means I need my phone with me though and not hidden in a pocket since it needs GPS signals to let me know my speed and plot my route and things. Crochet to the rescue! My first attempt at an armband was just a stretchy band with a simple phone case sewn on. This worked ok but not great – It felt tight enough when I put it on but as I jogged up and down it shifted and felt too loose. This is my improved design with a long strap and velcro so you can pull it as tight as you like and if the crochet stretches or you lose weight or someone else wants to borrow it then you can just pull it a bit tighter. It also has an extra pocket for my keys.

What you will need:

*About 50g of DK weight yarn and a suitable sized hook (I used 4mm)

*A small amount of Velcro (you could use a loop and button to close but then it won’t be adjustable)

*A yarn needle for sewing the work and a regular needle and thread for sewing on the Velcro

*A metal or plastic ring for looping the strap through – I used one from the strap of an old bag – it is square and works fine but having used it a couple of times I think a circular one would be slightly better as it tends to twist.

***The pattern is written in American crochet terms with the English equivalent in brackets and in purple after each instruction. If there are no bracketed instructions then the step is the same for English and American terms.***

Step 1. Leaving a longish tail for sewing later, chain the length of your metal or plastic ring (if it’s circular then chain just less than the diameter). I chained 7.

Step 2. Ch1, turn, sc [dc] each stitch to the end of the row.

Repeat step 2 until the work is about 4cm (1.5″) long.

Step 3. Place your phone/mp3 player/ipod so that the work is in the centre of one edge and chain to reach the edge:

Step 4. ch1, turn, sc [dc] each stitch of the row. Now instead of turning chain until the total length of the work is twice that of your phone/ipod etc:

Step 5. ch1, turn, sc [dc] each stitch to the end of the row.

Repeat step 5 until the work is wide enough to cover your phone. If you would like an extra pocket for your keys etc then continue adding rows until the work is large enough.

Step 6. ch1, turn, sc [dc] each stitch until you reach the point opposite the end of the initial little tab.

Step 7. ch1, turn, sc [dc] the same number of stitches as you chained in step 1. You are creating a strap the same width as, and directly opposite the initial tab.

Repeat step 7 until you have a strap long enough to wrap completely around your arm twice. This will seem very long but wrapping it all around makes it more secure. Fasten off:

Step 8. Fold the initial tab in half and sew it around the ring:

Step 9. Fold the large section of work up and sew up both edges. If you crocheted extra to hold keys etc. then insert your phone and sew up the edge to create two separate pockets. Leave a gap in your sewing at the position your headphones will plug in:

Step 10. Sew a small square of the hook type of Velcro to the end of the long strap:

Step 11. Put your phone/ipod into its pocket and any keys or anything else you’ll be carrying. Insert the long strap through the ring and fold it back on itself. Put the armband on and wrap the strap around your arm. Pull it as tight as feels secure and mark the point the small square of Velcro reaches. Take the armband off and sew a long length of the loop type of Velcro to the strap at the position you marked (this should be on the opposite side of the strap to the first square of Velcro). Line up the centre of the Velcro strip with the position you marked to make the strap adjustable in either direction. The longer the strip of Velcro, the more adjustable the band will be:

Weave in any loose ends you have and go for a jog :)

Watermelon Coin Purse

watermelon_purse_crochet_neschof

A crocheted coin purse with lining and zip. I used DK yarn with a 4mm hook and this purse is big enough to fit several cards inside as well as money. Crochet terms are first American and then again in English so scroll down to the next section if you want English terms.

MAIN BODY – AMERICAN TERMS

In red chain 3.

2. 3sc in 3rd chain from hook.

3. chain 1, turn, 2sc in each stitch. (6 stitches total)

4. ch1, turn, *2sc, sc*

*repeat twice more. (9 stitches)

5. ch1, turn, *2sc, sc, sc*

*repeat twice more. (12 stitches)

6. ch1, turn, *2sc, sc, sc, sc*

*repeat twice more. (15 stitches)

7. ch1, turn, *2sc, sc, sc, sc, sc*

*repeat twice more. (18 stitches)

8. Continue in this way for 9 more rows – adding one extra sc between increases on each row. You should now have 45 stitches.

At this point fold your work in half and notice that because we’ve been increasing in the same places each time the curved section is not smooth and doesn’t match up well. We will now correct this:

9. ch1, turn, sc first 7 stitches, 2sc, sc next 14 stitches, 2sc, sc next 14 stitches, 2sc, sc final 7 stitches. (48 stitches total)

10. ch1, turn, sc first 8, 2sc, sc next 15, 2sc, sc next 15, 2sc, sc final 7. (51 stitches)

11. ch1, turn, sc first 8, 2sc, sc next 16, 2sc, sc next 16, 2sc, sc final 8. (54 stitches)

12. ch1, turn, sc first 9, 2sc, sc next 17, 2sc, sc next 17, 2sc, sc final 8. (57 stitches)

13. ch1, turn, sc first 9, 2sc, sc next 18, 2sc, sc next 18, 2sc, sc final 9. (60 stitches)

14. ch1, turn, sc first 10, 2sc, sc next 19, 2sc, sc next 19, 2sc, sc final 9. (63 stitches)

15. ch1, turn, sc first 10, 2sc, sc next 20, 2sc, sc next 20, 2sc, sc final 10. (66 stitches)

16. ch1, turn, sc first 11, 2sc, sc next 21, 2sc, sc next 21, 2sc, sc final 10. (69 stitches)

Change colour to cream/white

17. ch1, turn, sc first 11, 2sc, sc next 22, 2sc, sc next 22, 2sc, sc final 11. (72 stitches)

18. ch1, turn, sc first 12, 2sc, sc next 23, 2sc, sc next 23, 2sc, sc final 11. (75 stitches)

Change colour to green

19. ch1, turn, sc first 12, 2sc, sc next 24, 2sc, sc next 24, 2sc, sc final 12. (78 stitches)

20. ch1, turn, sc first 13, 2sc, sc next 25, 2sc, sc next 25, 2sc, sc final 12. (81 stitches)

21. ch1, turn, sc first 13, 2sc, sc next 26, 2sc, sc next 26, 2sc, sc final 13. (84 stitches)

Fasten off. Fold in half again and the curved edges should now match up much better than before.

MAIN BODY – ENGLISH TERMS

1. In red chain 3.

2. 3dc in 3rd chain from hook.

3. chain 1, turn, 2dc in each stitch. (6 stitches total)

4. ch1, turn, *2dc, dc*

*repeat twice more. (9 stitches)

5. ch1, turn, *2dc, dc, dc*

*repeat twice more. (12 stitches)

6. ch1, turn, *2dc, dc, dc, dc*

*repeat twice more. (15 stitches)

7. ch1, turn, *2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc*

*repeat twice more. (18 stitches)

8. Continue in this way for 9 more rows – adding one extra dc between increases on each row. You should now have 45 stitches.

At this point fold your work in half and notice that because we’ve been increasing in the same places each time the curved section is not smooth and doesn’t match up well. We will now correct this:

9. ch1, turn, dc first 7 stitches, 2dc, dc next 14 stitches, 2dc, dc next 14 stitches, 2dc, dc final 7 stitches. (48 stitches total)

10. ch1, turn, dc first 8, 2dc, dc next 15, 2dc, dc next 15, 2dc, dc final 7. (51 stitches)

11. ch1, turn, dc first 8, 2dc, dc next 16, 2dc, dc next 16, 2dc, dc final 8. (54 stitches)

12. ch1, turn, dc first 9, 2dc, dc next 17, 2dc, dc next 17, 2dc, dc final 8. (57 stitches)

13. ch1, turn, dc first 9, 2dc, dc next 18, 2dc, dc next 18, 2dc, dc final 9. (60 stitches)

14. ch1, turn, dc first 10, 2dc, dc next 19, 2dc, dc next 19, 2dc, dc final 9. (63 stitches)

15. ch1, turn, dc first 10, 2dc, dc next 20, 2dc, dc next 20, 2dc, dc final 10. (66 stitches)

16. ch1, turn, dc first 11, 2dc, dc next 21, 2dc, dc next 21, 2dc, dc final 10. (69 stitches)

Change colour to cream/white

17. ch1, turn, dc first 11, 2dc, dc next 22, 2dc, dc next 22, 2dc, dc final 11. (72 stitches)

18. ch1, turn, dc first 12, 2dc, dc next 23, 2dc, dc next 23, 2dc, dc final 11. (75 stitches)

Change colour to green

19. ch1, turn, dc first 12, 2dc, dc next 24, 2dc, dc next 24, 2dc, dc final 12. (78 stitches)

20. ch1, turn, dc first 13, 2dc, dc next 25, 2dc, dc next 25, 2dc, dc final 12. (81 stitches)

21. ch1, turn, dc first 13, 2dc, dc next 26, 2dc, dc next 26, 2dc, dc final 13. (84 stitches)

Fasten off. Fold in half again and the curved edges should now match up much better than before.

SEEDS – AMERICAN TERMS (Make 6)

I used black crochet thread and a 2mm hook to create the seeds – if you don’t have these then small scraps of black felt cut to the same shape would work just as well.

1. Chain 6, slip stitch into the 2nd chain from the hook.

2. sc into next chain, (hdc, dc, hdc) all into next chain, sc, slst.

3. ch1, do not turn but work down the opposite side of the starting chain, slst, sc, (hdc, dc, hdc), sc, slst. Fasten off.

SEEDS – ENGLISH TERMS (Make 6)

I used black crochet thread and a 2mm hook to create the seeds – if you don’t have these then small scraps of black felt cut to the same shape would work just as well.

1. Chain 6, slip stitch into the 2nd chain from the hook.

2. dc into next chain, (htr, tr, htr) all into next chain, dc, slst.

3. ch1, do not turn but work down the opposite side of the starting chain, slst, dc, (htr, tr, htr), dc, slst. Fasten off.

REMAINING STEPS – AMERICAN & ENGLISH TERMS

Sew the seeds evenly around the watermelon.

Fold the work in half with the seeds facing out and whip stitch along the straight edge using the loose tails from crocheting – use red on the red section, green on the green etc.

LINING

To make the lining I highly recommend this fantastic tutorial from futuregirl. I just made my lining up as I went along – it works and I’ll go through how I did it but her’s are things of beauty in their own right.

1. Cut a semicircle of green material to the same size as the crocheted semicircle:

2. Fold in half and sew down the straight edge:

3. Create a hem along the curved edge by folding outwards and sew the zip along the top:

4. Put the lining into the crocheted watermelon and sew along the top edge to secure the lining in place:

5. Use green yarn to hide the edges of the zip.


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


 

Zombie Phone Case

I had a request from a friend for a zombie phone case and after a little bit of thinking this was the result. The thing that really makes it great, I think, is the hanging out eyeball and I can’t take any credit for that whatsoever – I saw it on an amigurumi bunny of doom at a blog called A Clockwork Angel and instantly knew it had to be the focal point of the phone case.
To make this case first follow the instructions for the flower phone case in grey (or green would look good) up to step 6. Go on, go do that now – we’ll wait for you….

Done that now? and your phone fits nicely inside? Good then let’s continue:

FASTENING STRAP

You don’t have to have a strap to close the top but I think the fact it’s on one side instead of central and that it hooks around the ‘good’ eye all adds to the creepy/quirkiness. Maybe there used to be a strap on the other side too but that eye just couldn’t take the strain….? If you want a strap too then stop your dc spiralling towards one side and chain long enough to loop down to the centre of the case while the phone is in it. Now dc into the next stitch of the case and slip stitch the next few stitches.

HAIR

If you have fluffy yarn like I did then change to this yarn and complete a couple of rounds of 1dc in each stitch – keep going until there is as much hair as you want. If you don’t have fluffy yarn then fasten off the grey yarn and you could tie lengths of a contrasting colour yarn around individual stitches on the top of the case and trim them into tufts. This will be more time-consuming but you have more freedom for the hairstyle – odd random tufts, male pattern baldness or a Mohican maybe.

FACE

If you are using a strap then the button eye should be positioned first and used as a basis to build the rest of the face. Put the phone into the case to locate the best position for the button so that the strap fastens easily and securely. For the popping out eye I used a small black bead inside a larger white bead but as you can see on the Bunny of Doom just a black bead looks great too. Thread the bead onto a length of pink thread or thin yarn and repeatedly knot the thread to create the eye entrails (or whatever they’re actually called!) until it is a good dangling length. Using black thread sew a patch opposite the button to act as an eye socket and pull the ends of the pink thread through either side of the centre of the socket. Tie the ends together and trim inside the case.

Finally using black thread again sew a mouth as shown in the photos or in any expression you like, I’m sure the options are endless!

Crocodile Scarf

crocodile_scarf_crochet_neschof

I saw a pattern on Ravelry several months back for a crocodile scarf – I bookmarked it and kept checking back but it always just said “pattern coming soon”. And now it has disappeared so I decided to take matters into my own hands! I looked at a few videos of the crocodile stitch but I find videos hard to follow because everyone’s crochet style is different and they hold the work at different angles, twist the hook around different ways. I find written instructions with diagrams and photos of the steps much easier to follow but I didn’t find much of that (especially for left-handers) so I muddled through as best I could and wrote it out in detail as I completed each bit.

The starting point is the diagram below – I started at the tail and figured out how to increase as I went along.

crocodile scarf diagram

Here is a photo of the body in progress. I looked at a few different websites explaining the crocodile stitch and, while everyone seems to do it slightly differently, once I got my head around the general idea it was actually very easy. So for everyone out there like me, who prefers written instructions and detailed photos, here is a detailed photo tutorial of how I created this scarf….

˜Crocodile scarf tail

Crochet terms are American in red and then in English in green afterwards. As I’m left-handed all the photos show the steps as seen by a left-handed crocheter – I’ll try to give written instructions for both left and right-handers but if you’re right-handed and struggling, try flipping the photos and if you’re still confused then leave a comment and I’ll try to help.

Some of the instructions I watched flipped the work back and forth to create the scales however I found it easier to always have the front facing me and spin the work. Experiment and do whatever works best for you.

I am using bamboo ribbon yarn that I’m not sure of the weight of and a 5mm hook which makes each scale ~2.5cm (1 inch) in width and height.

TAIL

Step 1. Chain 3

Step 2. dc [tr] into the 3rd chain from the hook.Step 3. turn 90 degrees anticlockwise (clockwise if you’re right-handed) and crochet 5dc [5tr] around the dc [tr] from step 2.

Step 4. ch1 and turn the work 180 degrees anticlockwise (clockwise if you’re right-handed) and crochet 5dc [5tr] around the initial chains from step 1.

Step 5. ch2, slip stitch into the centre top of the scale. chain 2 and dc [tr] into the top of the scale again. This is the basis for the next scale.

Step 6. turn 90 degrees anticlockwise (clockwise if you’re right-handed) and crochet 5dc [5tr] around the dc [tr] from the previous step.

Step 7. ch1, turn 180 degrees anticlockwise (clockwise if you’re right-handed) and crochet 5dc [5tr] around the chains from step 5.

Repeat steps 5-7 until the tail is as long as you would like it. My scarf has 8 scales in the tail. Now we need to increase up to the width of the main body of the scarf….

INCREASING

Step 8. ch2, dc [tr] around the last dc [tr] of the scaleStep 9. ch1, dc [tr] into the centre top of the scale, ch1, 2dc [2tr] between the first and second dc [tr] of the scale

Step 10. Follow steps 6 & 7 to create a scale around the 2dc [2tr] you just completed

Step 11. We now need to attach this scale to the single treble from step 9. Turn the work 180 degrees so it is as shown in the photo below and insert the hook under the single dc [tr] as shown by the red arrow and slip 1 stitch.

Step 12. Keeping the work in this orientation follow steps 6 & 7 again to create a second scale around the chains and stitches on the other side (this can be a little awkward the first few times – keep going!).

We are now going to increase again on the next row.

Step 13. American: ch2, dc around last dc of scale, ch1, dc into centre of scale, ch1, 2dc between the scales, ch1, dc into centre of scale, ch1, 2dc into 1st dc of the end scale.

English: ch2, tr around last tr of scale, ch1, tr into centre of scale, ch1, 2tr between the scales, ch1, tr into centre of scale, ch1, 2tr into 1st treble of the end scale.

Step 14. Repeat steps 10-12 to create scales around each set of 2dc [2tr].

To make the increase up to the full scarf width gradual we are now going to decrease on the next row before increasing again…

DECREASING

Step 15. ch2, sl st into the centre of the 1st scale, ch2, sl st between the first and second scale, ch2, dc [tr] between the first and second scale, ch1, dc [tr] into the centre top of next scale, ch1, 2dc [2tr] between the next scales.

Your work should now look like the photo below.

Step 16. Repeat steps 10-12 again to create scales around the sets of 2dc [2tr].

Now you know how to increase and decrease you can use the steps above to make the crocodile scarf as follows (if you have followed all the steps above you will have just completed row 4 below).

I am using bamboo ribbon yarn that I’m not sure of the weight of (but it’s pretty chunky) and a 5mm hook which makes each scale ~2.5cm (1 inch) in width and height.

row 1 (tail): 1 scale for as long as you like (I have used a chain of 8 scales for my tail)

row 2: increase to 2 scales

row 3: increase to 3 scales

row 4: decrease to 2 scales

row 5: increase to 3 scales

row 6: increase to 4 scales

row 7: increase to 5 scales

row 8: decrease to 4 scales

Continue alternating between 4 and 5 scales to a row until the body of the scarf is as long as you want it.

If you’re using thin yarn then I would recommend continuing until the work is normal scarf length – long enough to wrap around your neck at least once. If like me you are using quite thick yarn then the resulting scarf will be too thick to wrap all the way around. Instead I made a “tab” and sewed it to the underside of the head then you can pull the tail section through to secure the scarf wrapped just around the back of the neck (as shown below).

˜crocodile scarf closed

For the tab chain about 15 and just complete a couple of rows of double crochet – it doesn’t need to be pretty – it won’t be seen. Then sew it to the underside of the head approximately where the eyes will be.

Anyway whichever method you choose you first need to know how to complete the head!

After the body is as long as you want it end on a row containing 4 scales

HEAD

row 1: decrease to 3 scales

row 2: decrease to 2 scales

row 3: increase to 3 scales

row 4: increase to 4 scales

row 5: decrease to 3 scales

row 6: increase to 4 scales

row 7: decrease to 3 scales

row 8: decrease to 2 scales

row 9: increase to 3 scales

Fasten off and weave in ends.

TEETH

With much thinner white yarn and a small hook attach to the edge of the final row of scales. There are no proper stitches here so please excuse the lengthy descriptions of where to complete stitches – I hope it makes sense!

Step 1. chain 1 and sc [dc] into the same place you attached the yarn

Step 2. complete 5dc [5tr] into somewhere halfway between the edge of the scale and the centre of the scale

Step 3. 1sc [1dc] into the centre of the scale

Step 4. complete 5dc [5tr] into somewhere halfway between the centre of the scale and the far edge of the scale

Step 5. 1sc [1dc] between this scale and the next

you should now have 2 teeth attached to the first scale. repeat steps 2-5 for the next 2 scales until you reach the end – you should now have 6 teeth. Fasten off and weave in ends.

EYES

I tried a few different styles of safety eyes but they all made him look a bit sinister so in the end I used white felt and black thread. Experiment with the placement of the eyes to give him different expressions. Mine are placed on the middle two scales of the 4th row from the end.


Pay what you feel

If you liked this pattern and want to contribute to my wool stash so I can make bigger and better things then you can donate whatever amount you think this pattern is worth here. To donate more than £1 just increase the number of items 😉 Thank you!

£1.00


crocodile_scarf_crochet_neschof


Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


˜Crocodile scarf 1

He♥rt-Shaped Bag

heart_bag_crochet_neschof

I needed a bag quickly last week to match a dress I was wearing for a big night out. The result is the heart-shaped bag above – it was made in a rush so is not lined as I would have liked and it’s only big enough to hold the essentials but I still think it’s very cute. Here’s how I made it – there are no in progress photos so I hope my little diagrams will help to explain.

Crochet terms are American with English in brackets after each instruction.

To help speed up the process I used 2 strands of DK/Worsted weight yarn together as one (I used two different shades of red for a mottled effect but you can use completely different colours or just two strands of the same colour for different effects) and a 5mm hook.

FRONT & BACK (make 2)

1. Chain 20

2. *chain 1, turn, skipping the turning chain sc [dc] each stitch of row (20 stitches)*

*repeat step 2 until you have 20 rows. Your work should now be square – if not then increase/decrease the number of rows to make your piece (vaguely) square.

3. complete 2 more rows as in step 2.

4. *turn (without a turning chain), skip the first stitch of the row and sc [dc] all the rest.*

*repeat step 4 for four rows. (ie. sc [dc] 4 rows, decreasing by 1 stitch at the beginning of each row)

5. *turn (without a turning chain), skip the first stitch of the row and sc [dc] the rest stopping 1 stitch from the end of the row.*

*repeat step 5 for four rows. (ie. sc [dc] 4 rows, decreasing by 1 stitch at the beginning and end of each row)

Fasten off.

CONSTRUCTION

Pin the 2 pieces together at right angles to create a heart shape as shown in the diagram below.

Starting at the position shown sc [dc] through both layers (1 stitch in each row) down to the point of the heart, continue up the other side crocheting through both layers still until you reach the position marked END. Now following the arrows on the diagram sc [dc] through just one layer to neaten the shape. Continue around until you again reach the position marked END and fasten off.

This is the basic bag and you can adjust the next steps to suit how you would like it to close/what you want it to look like etc.

OPENING

Using the same yarn I sewed just less than half way up each edge as shown in the photo above to narrow the opening and added a small press stud to the centre (a larger one would have been better but that is all I had.) You could instead add a small loop to the centre back and a button to the front.

STRAP

Attach the yarn to the centre of one side of the heart and follow the instructions as shown on the diagram below. If you would like a thicker strap then just keep repeating this process. Fasten off at one end and weave in loose ends.

DECORATION

I finished off this bag by adding a flower made using the cardboard cog flower loom from the same yarn as the bag and with a button in the centre.

I’m sure some of you lovely people can come up with better ways of closing this bag (a zip and a lining would be very nice) but I had limited time and resources – I’ll hopefully get around to making another, improved version sometime. If you would like any steps clarifying then please leave a message on this post. Enjoy!

UPDATE

Here is a quick sketch of my thoughts on how to improve this pattern (if anyone feels like giving it a go – i don’t know how long it’ll be before I get around to it!).

1. add a lining to the front and back pieces before they are crocheted together.

2. add tabs and rings between the lining and outer pieces to more securely attach the strap.

3. instead of sewing a little way up each side and having a press stud sew up the back edge completely and just have the opening all along the front edge closed with a few decorative buttons (or a zip if you prefer). this would make the usable section of the bag bigger and be more secure.



Copyright & Legal Stuff: I’m happy for you to sell items you make from this pattern but the images and words are mine – I worked hard writing & testing & photographing so don’t copy or distribute any part of this pattern. If you want to share it then link to this page. Thanks & happy crocheting


 

Vintage style phone case

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“ANOTHER phone case!?” I hear you cry. “Are you insane woman – you have about twelve already!”

well yes, that is true, but my excuse is that I just changed my phone. I now have a lovely shiny new BlackBerry and while it is the correct size for some of my phone cases it has a rubberized case and so doesn’t really slide into them easily. So I decided to make a lovely lined case and this is the result. I think it’s my favourite one yet – lots of the others are colourful and fun but I just love the colours of this case and the stitch used makes it look interestingly vintage.

The pattern is in both American and English terms – scroll down for the English version

The stitch is a variation on the grit stitch and it creates a nicely dense fabric – here’s how to do it:

American Terms:

Row 1. Chain slightly longer than the length of your phone/camera/iPod/laptop etc. making sure you have an even number of stitches. (if your phone/camera is quite thick then chain the length plus the depth). Now chain an extra 3

Row 2. dc into the 3rd chain from the hook.  *miss one stitch, sc and then dc into the next stitch. *repeat to the end of the row but on the last stitch just sc

Row 3. Chain one, turn, dc into the last sc of the previous row. *miss one stitch, sc and then dc into the next stitch. *repeat to the end of the row but on the last stitch just sc

Button holes. Repeat row 3 a couple of times and then make two buttonholes (or as many as you’d like), evenly spaced on the next row, as follows: wait until after you have just completed an sc dc pair. Instead of missing one stitch, chain 2 and, skipping the next three stitches of the row, continue as normal with an sc and dc into the 4th stitch. Try to space your button holes evenly along the row. My two button holes were created during the third row.

Repeat row 3, treating the buttonhole chains as regular stitches (just count and sc/dc into them as you would for a normal stitch).

Keep repeating row 3 until the piece is long enough to wrap around your phone and overlaps enough to fasten with buttons. Fasten off (leaving a very long tail for sewing on your lining later).

˜

 


English Terms:

Row 1. Chain slightly longer than the length of your phone/camera/iPod/laptop etc. making sure you have an even number of stitches. (if your phone/camera is quite thick then chain the length plus the depth). Now chain an extra 3

Row 2. tr into the 3rd chain from the hook.  *miss one stitch, dc and then tr into the next stitch. *repeat to the end of the row but on the last stitch just dc

Row 3. Chain one, turn, tr into the last dc of the previous row. *miss one stitch, dc and then tr into the next stitch. *repeat to the end of the row but on the last stitch just dc

Button holes. Repeat row 3 a couple of times and then make two buttonholes (or as many as you’d like), evenly spaced on the next row, as follows: wait until after you have just completed a dc tr pair. Instead of missing one stitch, chain 2 and, skipping the next three stitches of the row, continue as normal with a dc and tr into the 4th stitch. Try to space your button holes evenly along the row. My two button holes were created during the third row.

Repeat row 3, treating the buttonhole chains as regular stitches (just count and dc/tr into them as you would for a normal stitch).

Keep repeating row 3 until the piece is long enough to wrap around your phone and overlaps enough to fasten with buttons. Fasten off (leaving a very long tail for sewing on your lining later).

 


LINING

Cut a piece of complementary or contrasting fabric to be just slightly larger than your piece of crochet. Create a hem all the way around (to prevent fraying) by folding under the edges and pinning to the crochet piece. Using your tail of yarn whip stitch or blanket stitch all around the edge. I think the whip stitch is quicker and easier but the blanket stitch would look fantastic if you wanted to use a contrasting colour to sew on the lining.

From the other side cut a slit in the lining at the position of the button holes and whip stitch all around the holes. This is where you can fine tune the size of the holes to fit your chosen buttons. Make the slits bigger and stretch the hole slightly to make bigger or whip stitch more tightly to reduce the size of the holes.

FINISHING

Fold up the opposite end of the piece from the holes and sew down each edge (I just whip stitched again) to create a pocket for your phone. You can choose to make this pocket big enough to completely, or only partly cover your phone. Mine only partly covers the phone so I can check the LED for messages or missed calls without having to unbutton the case or take the phone out. The lid folds over and overlaps so the phone is still completely covered and protected (doing it this way also means you can see more of the lovely lining material).

Now put your phone in the case and fold over the flap to decide on the best place to sew the buttons. When sewing on the buttons try to only sew through the crochet and not the lining – this looks nicer and means there are no knots rubbing against your phone on the inside. Instead, hide your knot between the button and the case.

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Seamless fingerless glove pattern

This pattern is for seamless fingerless gloves with a ribbed cuff. Worked in one piece and with instructions for several different finishing decorations.

The instructions include numbers (of stitches/rows etc) for a medium-sized glove that should fit most people but instructions are also given to increase/decrease the size if needed and you are encouraged to try the gloves on regularly and adjust for a perfect fit. Because of this the gauge I’ve given is a good ballpark figure but not essential to achieve exactly.

Instructions are included for both left and right-handed crocheters.

Fully illustrated, detailed instructions for these gloves are available for £1 (that’s about $1.64 at the time of writing). You can either buy now via paypal or purchase through Ravelry:

If you have any issues with payment or download please contact Ravelry, if you have pattern questions or want any help with this project you can contact me via the contact page of this site.

Bunny & spider finger puppets

Last time I saw my niece and nephew I took them a couple of things I’d crocheted – they liked them but then just came up with a long list of things they wanted for next time! Top of the list was a bunny and a spider and since I’ve not had a lot of time to make things I’ve made them as finger puppets – small and very quick. The best finger puppet I’ve ever seen has got to be the killer bunny finger puppet but sadly I think my niece was after something cuter. The little eyes on the killer bunny are just the most awesome things – they’re so tiny! If anyone knows where I can get buttons that small please leave a comment or send me an email.

Now on with the pattern:

I used a 3.5mm hook (for the spider) and a 4mm hook (for the bunny) and worsted weight yarn. You may have to increase another round if you go for smaller hooks/thinner yarn. We’ll be working round in a spiral crocheting into the back loop only of each stitch.

American crochet terms (English terms version below)

BASIC BODY

Round 1. Create a magic ring with 6sc

Round 2. 2sc in each stitch (12 stitches total)

Round 3. 1sc in each stitch. No need to keep track of rounds – just keep going around until the body is as long as you’d like it then sl st a couple of stitches and fasten off.

EARS (x2)

Step 1. Chain 8

Step 2. Turn. sl st in 2nd chain from hook. sc, hdc, 3dc, hdc, sc, sl st.

Fasten off and sew onto head.

Stitch on buttons or beads for eyes.

SPIDER

Make the body the same as for the bunny but instead of fastening off:

Step 1. ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each stitch of the chain.

Step 2. sc in next stitch of body.

Repeat steps 1 & 2 until you have 8 legs. Fasten off.

Glue lots of eyes onto the front (the front is where there is a gap between the legs).

English crochet terms

BASIC BODY

Round 1. Create a magic ring with 6dc

Round 2. 2dc in each stitch (12 stitches total)

Round 3. 1dc in each stitch. No need to keep track of rounds – just keep going around until the body is as long as you’d like it then 

sl st a couple of stitches and fasten off.

EARS (x2)

Step 1. Chain 8

Step 2. Turn. sl st in 2nd chain from hook. dc, htr, 3tr, htr, dc, sl st.

Fasten off and sew onto head.

Stitch on buttons or beads for eyes.

SPIDER

Make the body the same as for the bunny but instead of fastening off:

Step 1. ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each stitch of the chain.

Step 2. dc in next stitch of body.

Repeat steps 1 & 2 until you have 8 legs. Fasten off.

Glue lots of eyes onto the front (the front is where there is a gap between the legs).

Hedgehog Pincushion

I keep stabbing my pins into anything nearby when I take them out of a project and this can cause problems, depending on who’s sitting nearby…. so I made this little hedgehog – he doesn’t mind being stabbed by pins at all, in fact they’re part of his look.

We’ll be working amigurumi style so use a stitch marker to keep track of rounds and just keep going in a spiral. The pattern is in American terms first and just scroll down to the next section if you prefer English terms.

What you will need:

a small piece of felt/fabric

2 buttons/beads (for eyes)

brown yarn and a suitable size hook (I used worsted weight and a 4mm hook)

a yarn needle

a regular needle (for sewing the beads/buttons)

black thread

pins

stuffing

Pattern in American terms:

BODY

Start by cutting a circle of felt or fabric ~8cm in diameter. If your fabric is likely to fray then cut the circle slightly larger, tuck under the edge and pin to create a hem all the way around. with the yarn you’re using for the body blanket stitch all around the edge of your circle. Make the stitches quite close together, you’re aiming for about the width of one crochet stitch. (I imagine you’ll be able to do a much neater job than I have!)

Now take your hook and the same yarn and sc in each stitch around the circle. When you’ve been all the way around once use your stitch marker to keep track and complete 4 more rounds with 1sc in each stitch.

ROUND 6. *sc in 2nd stitch from the hook and the next 4 stitches. *repeat until you have completed 1 round.

Because the number of blanket stitches in the beginning will not be the same for everyone then you probably won’t have the exact number of stitches needed for an exact number of repeats. Don’t worry about this – just stop wherever you are when you get back to the stitch marker and start the next round as normal. If this part of the body looks slightly uneven when you have finished then just make sure that this is where you sew on the nose and it will all be hidden.

ROUND 7. *sc in 2nd stitch from hook and next 3 stitches. *repeat until round complete.

ROUND 8. *sc in 2nd stitch from hook and next 2 stitches. *repeat until round complete.

STUFF

ROUND 9. *sc in 2nd stitch from hook and 1 more stitch. *repeat until round complete.

STUFF A BIT MORE

ROUND 10. *sc in 2nd stitch from hook. *repeat until there are no stitches left. fasten off and weave in ends.

NOSE

ROUND 1. Create a magic circle with 6sc and slip stitch closed.

ROUND 2. 2sc, sc, sc, 2sc, sc, sc (8 stitches total)

ROUND 3. 1sc in each stitch (8 stitches total)

ROUND 4. 2sc, 1sc next 3, 2sc, 1sc next 3 (10 stitches total)

ROUND 5. 1sc in each stitch (10 stitches total)

ROUND 6. 2sc, 1sc next 4, 2sc, 1sc next 4 (12 stitches total)

ROUND 7. *2sc, 1sc next 3,*repeat twice more (15 stitches total)

ROUND 8. 1sc in each stitch (15 stitches total)

ROUND 7. *2sc, 1sc next 2,*repeat 4 more times (20 stitches total)

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing onto the body. At this point you may think the nose looks a bit odd (see photo) but it will look much more nose-like once it’s attached and you embroider on the black tip so don’t worry.

Stuff the nose and sew onto the body.

FEET (x4)

ROUND 1. Create a magic circle with 6sc and slip stitch closed.

ROUND 2. 1sc in each stitch.

fasten off and sew onto underside of body.

FINISHING

Sew on 2 beads/buttons for eyes and use black thread to create the nose tip. Now add your pins for his spikes – try experimenting with different “hairstyles”

˜hedgehog front
˜punk hedgehog

Pattern in English terms:

Continue reading “Hedgehog Pincushion”

Vampire bat phone case

vampire bat phonecase I love this little guy – he’s so cute, and was easy to make

Here is the pattern in American terms (for English terms scroll down and see the read more section):

˜bat phone case face

BODY: Follow the instructions for the flower mobile phone case in black yarn. At step 6 fasten off leaving a long length of yarn to sew on the ears.

Cut out 2 white felt circles, 2 smaller black felt circles and sew them on in matching colour thread. I wanted a wide eyed look for this guy but you could experiment with different expressions – such as the one on this owl phone case. Sew on a mouth and fangs in white thread.

WINGS (x2):

Step 1. Create a magic ring with 6sc.

Step 2. Work in the back loop only of each stitch. 2sc in each stitch of the circle (12 stitches total).

Step 3. *2sc in the first stitch, 1sc in next stitch. *Repeat 6 times (18 stitches total).

Step 4. sc, *2hdc, dc, 2hdc, sc. *Repeat 3 times.

Step 5. ch1, turn, sc in 2nd stitch from hook, sc next 2 stitches, 2dc, sc next 5 stitches, 2dc, sc next 5 stitches, 2dc, sc next 3 stitches.

Step 6. ch1, turn, sl st in 2nd stitch from hook, sl st next 2 stitches, sc, ch3, sc, sl st next 5 stitches, sc, ch3, sc, sl st next 5 stitches, sc, ch3, sc, sl st next 3 stitches.

Step 7. Do not turn. Continuing in the same direction sc each stitch along the uneven edge to neaten. fasten off and weave in ends.

I chose to line my wings (pick a nice fabric – cut to vaguely the correct shape but bigger than the wing. tuck edges of fabric under as you pin to the wing then sew around using either black or a contrasting thread as I did. Avoid placing a stitch on the tips of the wings). You could also just leave the wings as they are with no lining.

EARS (x2): Step 1. Create a magic ring with 6sc.

Step 2. 2sc into the back loop of each stitch in the ring (12 stitches total).

Step 3. *dc into the next stitch, slip stitch into the next 3 stitches. *repeat 3 times (12 stitches total).

 

Step 4. fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew the pieces together as shown in the photo and pop your phone inside. This could easily be adapted to be a cat instead by not making the wings and adding a triangle nose and mouth in pink instead. I’m sure there are lots of other versions possible too – a friend says she is going to try a bunny case where the head is actually a flap that folds over the top. If you find these instructions useful and you create something please leave a comment with a link to photos – I’d love to see what people are making!

˜bat phone case finished


 

 

Read more for the pattern in English terms:

Continue reading “Vampire bat phone case”

flower phone case pattern

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This was my first ever written crochet pattern and I published it on my first blog – cult of crochet. It is the basics of starting any amigurumi broken down in to small pieces and I’ve used as the basis of many other patterns. It’s a very good first pattern to try when learning to crochet. I’ve now finally got around to moving all my content over to here so I can retire that site and I took the opportunity to edit the post to give both American and English crochet terms.

I am left-handed and English. I found learning crochet quite hard at first as all the instructions were right handed – in the end I found wonderful instructions with left and right handed photographs at Planet June. The instructions for this phone case work fine left or right handed but the photographs show the work done left-handed so may look different from your work in progress. The pattern is written first in American terms and then again in English terms so scroll down to the next section if you’d prefer English terms.

Pick any yarn you like the colour of (mine is a wonderful bright blue) and a hook size to match. I used a 3.5mm hook. Gauge is not important as you’ll be using your phone/ipod/camera for sizing.

American crochet terms:

Step 1. Make a chain the same width as your phone. In my case this was 13 stitches.

Step 2. Chain 1, sc in the second stitch from the hook and in each stitch of the starting chain.

Step 3. sc twice more in this same stitch. you will now have 3 stitches (shown as red dots) in the last stitch of the row taking you around the corner.

Step 4. Do not turn but continue around the corner and sc in the other side of each stitch in your starting chain.

Step 5. Do not turn. you will now be working in a spiral – clockwise for left-handers, anticlockwise for right-handers. sc in the back loop only of each stitch and just continue to go around in a spiral. Once the work is a couple of cm long check the size on your phone – it should be snug but not stretched.

Step 6. Keep going around until the piece is long enough to almost cover your phone/ipod/etc. At this point you could just slip stitch the next few stitches and fasten off for a simple strapless case. Or continue to the next step and we will start to make the strap.

Step 7. sc the next 4 stitches but going through both loops of each stitch from now on.

Step 8. ch1, turn, sc in second stitch from hook (going through both loops now) and then sc next 3 stitches.

repeat step 8 until the strap is long enough to reach the top of the position you would like your button to be. mine was 12 rows.

Step 9. We will now be making the button hole so have your button to hand so you can make the hole the correct size. ch1, turn, sc in second stitch from the hook, sc next stitch.

Step 10. ch1, turn, sc in second stitch from the hook, sc next stitch.

repeat step 10 until this section is as long as you would like your button hole to be (this needs to be an even number of rows). I think it should be just less than the length of your button but I’ve not tried it with very large or small buttons so a little bit of trial and error may be needed if you are using an unusually shaped/sized button. I needed 4 rows.

Step 11. ch1, turn, sc in second stitch from the hook, sc next stitch, ch2.

Step 12. ch1, turn so you are going back down the strap, sc in second stitch from the hook, sc next stitch.

repeat step 12 until you have the same number of rows on each side of the button hole. So in my case I crocheted 4 rows again. Your work should now look like the photo below.

Step 13. slip stitch the next 2 stitches going through both the small section you have just created and the main body of the strap. Fasten off and weave in the end. You should now have a continuous strap with a button hole at the end.

Flower:

Step 1. Create a magic ring with 6 sc in the ring. Work in a spiral and use a stitch marker to keep track of where the round ends. Crochet into the back loops only of all stitches.

Step 2. crochet 2sc into the back loop of each stitch of the ring (12 stitches in total).

Step 3. 2sc into the 1st stitch, 1sc into the next stitch. repeat all the way around. (18 stitches in total).

Step 4. 2sc into the 1st stitch, 1sc into the next 2 stitches. repeat all the way around. (24 stitches in total).

At this point I fastened off but if you are using a large button you may want to go around again so the crochet flower is bigger than the button.

Step 5. Sew the button in the centre of the circle.

Step 6. put your phone into the case to determine the best position for the button and then sew on the flower. I used blue thread, the same colour as the case, to create a frilly edged look to the flower.

Step 7. The final step is just to sew on a stem and leaf in green and enjoy!

read more for English crochet terms:

Continue reading “flower phone case pattern”